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Jun. 11th, 2008 @ 03:13 pm Jiuzhaigou 九寨沟
Current Mood: impressed
Back in Songpan, we ate dinner at this small but very popular American style restaurant. The service was painfully slow, but they did have good soup, breakfast, hamburgers, and fries. In one corner was a French couple. They overheard our conversation about bus routes and finding a better hotel for our last night in town. As we got up to leave, they recommended a much nicer hotel for the same price. Paul looked at me as we left, “You see, they knew we were French, but they didn’t come up and ‘nous fais chier’” - bother us like every Anglo we had come across.

The next day we hopped on a crowded local bus to Jiuzhaigou. Seated cozily among Tibetan women with very colorful clothing, we rode for 3 hours across a cloudy plateau, stopping occasionally to let sheep herders cross. Now Jiǔzhàigōu means “Nine Village Valley” and is a famous scenic area. The Yellowstone of China and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s shaped like an upside down ‘Y’ with each branch consisting of waterfalls, beautiful turquoise lakes, and Tibetan villages. Buses go up and down each branch for the lazy. Otherwise, you can trek along pleasant boardwalks that lessen the environmental impact of the many tourists who visit each day.

It’s forbidden to camp or overnight inside the park. However, there are a number of Tibetan bed and breakfasts that you can stay at inside the park. Kind of a “wink wink” deal. So after buying our two day pass at the park entrance, we headed on up to the Shuzheng village, or stockade as it was called on the translated maps. Paul was a bit disappointed by the park entrance. He was hoping for a very secluded remote feel. Instead, the entrance made us feel like we had just bought tickets to Disney World.

The park was gorgeous and the waterfalls were spectacular. Easily the most impressive I had ever seen (see ‘Taste of Tibet’ photos). Our Tibetan hosts provided breakfast and dinner. Also, the park closed at 6pm which meant we had to hurry back to the B&B or risk being kicked out by park rangers. Of course, one of the Tibetans whose family we stayed with was a park ranger. The more surreal thing was eating dinner in their elaborately decorated and colorful living room while watching satellite French TV. Our hosts were very gracious and let us watch Tele 5 Monde and learn the results of France’s parliamentary elections. I didn’t know how to say president in Chinese, so I told them “Sarkozy, France’s Hu Jintao.” Dinner consisted of some potatoes, vegetables, and I think a meat dish. Breakfast was… different from something normal like cornflakes or a croissant. Along with shredded red cabbage with spices was a kind of milk, grain, butter tea. The drink was hot and had the consistency of sand. Still, it hit the spot. That along with ramen noodles and a few snacks was my subsistence for three days of extensive hiking. No wonder I lost so much weight.

After two days of pleasant exploration, it was time to leave. Our hosts drove us to the bus stop and we headed back to Chengdu. This time the weather was clear and the scenery spectacular. Rolling green hills surrounded by snow capped mountains and deep blue skies. Despite the pleasant start, the trip was rough. Our driver was hocking loogies out the window every two minutes, the sound getting more disgusting with each kilometer. Then, we were stuck in a three hour traffic jam. With only one main road going through the mountains, we were delayed by construction. Indeed, we spend almost 20 min in a long carbon monoxide filled tunnel. I looked at Paul, “Dude, we could die in here! The ventilation fans aren’t even working…” After taking a year or two off my life expectancy, I arrived back in Chengdu. Crowded, noisy, and hazy.
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Blade Runner
Jun. 9th, 2008 @ 03:04 pm Sichuan Style
Current Mood: refreshed
The next stop in our Sichuan tour was the mountain town of Songpan, located at the eastern edge of the Tibetan plateau. To get there, we had to endure a grueling 10-hour bus ride through winding mountain roads. Plus, this bus had no bathroom. We could go only when the bus stopped, usually once every 1 ½ hours, The facilities available along the road, not surprisingly, looked like something out of Dante’s Inferno. The best part was the Chinese style of mountain driving. Passing in a blind bend? No problem! Just continuously honk your horn for ten hours to let any on coming traffic no you’re there. For all my complaints, the ride wasn’t bad and the scenery was spectacular. The road followed a river that cut through towering green mountains on either side. As we climbed higher and higher, I got to observe a ‘Bill Nye: The Science Guy’ phenomenon. The packaging of our snacks became fully inflated like a balloon. The slightest touch and the thing would pop - a result of the falling air pressure as we moved towards the clouds.

Finally, in the early afternoon, we arrived in Songpan, 9,000 feet above sea level. After one night in a very rustic hostel, though you can’t argue with $5 a night, we headed out for the highlight of any trip to Songpan: a pony ride across the mountain. Checkout the photos at the top of the page under “Sichuan Style”. The air was so fresh I couldn’t believe I was in China. I have never been to the Pacific Northwest, but I imagine it to be similar to the forests of Sichuan. There was a crisp moisture to the air. Our Tibetan and Chinese guides set up camp and made us lunch. Lots of thick nan bread, potatoes, and the classic Chinese dish of tomatoes and scrambled eggs. They then directed us to Monigou Park, a fantastic scenic area with no tourists! There were maybe 5 other people in the whole park, making for a serene afternoon. Fresh air, blue skies, crystal clear turquoise ponds, and the sound of flowing water. It was one of the loveliest places I’ve ever seen and by far the most peaceful. Light-years away from what I had come to associate with China: smog, crowds, noise, barren land, and urban sprawl.

After chatting with a group of Tibetan children who got a real kick out my height, we headed back to our campsite. Our guides cooked a great meal. With our bellies full, we started throwing back the beer and bai jiu. One of the younger Tibetan guides took a liking to Paul’s sister Caroline. He would drunkenly tell me in English that she was beautiful and that she should stay with him. I was pretty tipsy myself. Paul later told me “Tu as tourne des jolies phrases, mec!” (You put together some lovely sentences!). I conversed in three languages, my Chinese improving with every shot of bai jiu. I told my guides my reasons for not dating Chinese girls which always makes me sound like a nice guy ;) The young Tibetan guide, becoming soulful, told me about some American girl he had dated a year earlier. He told me he loved her, that her name was Katie I think, and that when I go back to the States to tell her that he still waits for her return…

I got a sense of China’s ‘harmonious society’ when our older guide told us he was married to a Han Chinese. Indeed, our Chinese and Tibetan guides were all buddies, working together to show bai guis the pretty mountains. Our amourous guide made me laugh aloud when he said to me in English, “In Songpan, I can take you to Tibetan ladies. Their *&^* very tight…” I yelled out in French, “Il me propose des putres!” He looked at me saying in English, “no, no, don’t translate. They already have girlfriends those two.” By this point, I had successfully obliterated myself mixing Chinese fire water and warm beer. I stumbled back to my tent and collapsed with the fabric twirling above my head. I will also say that my yak fur coat really cushioned my frequent falls. It was a divine miracle, maybe having to do with the altitude, that I awoke the next morning feeling fine.

We headed off again on our ponies, passing some beautiful scenery and a Tibetan village with hundreds of prayer flags blowing in the wind. After climbing a steep trail and fording a few streams, we reached a summit overlooking Songpan and it’s valley. A large number of other tourists had arrived on their ponies, including a school group from Chengdu. We enjoyed the view and drank some warm yak milk tea. Slightly bitter, but very hearty. As we chilled out and enjoyed the view of ‘Ice Mountain’ in the distance. A white guy in his early forties walked up to us. “Hey, where you from?” Paul and company of course didn’t respond, annoyed that some jackass would come interrupt their experience. I was friendlier. It turns out he was a fellow Virginian. “Falls Church?! Really? I’m from Shenandoah. My sister lives in Falls Church.” He told me how he was learning Chinese in Chengdu and planned on starting some kind of business because “China is the place to be!”

We headed back into town and unceremoniously said goodbye to our guides. The young one (my age) was a bit embarrassed from the previous night. We didn’t go to any Tibetan love houses after all…
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Blade Runner
Jun. 5th, 2008 @ 01:00 pm Chengdu It
Current Location: Chengdu
Current Mood: curious
Current Music: Noel Gallagher - "Teotihuacan"
The train ride from Xian to Chengdu took 24 hours. We opted for the cheap train. No air conditioning. Just open windows and little fans attached to the wall. Fortunately, it wasn’t very hot and apart from being in a windy train for a day, the trip was comfortable and pleasant. Adjacent to our triple bunk berth was this strange Irish guy. At least he said he was Irish. His accent sounded like a bizarre German/Eastern European mix. Paul wanted nothing to do with this guy, but I didn’t mind chatting. He was travelling with his new friend, a Brit named Michael whose previous travel partner had to return home. We hit it off right away, more so after discussing tv shows. He revealed that he loved Joss Whedon’s ‘Firefly’ and was also a huge fan of ‘Arrested Development’, thereby solidifying our superficial friendship. Like many Brits with money, he decided to take a year and “find himself” with a trip around the world. I knew of this wealthy Englishman’s tradition, usually taken after high school or upon completion of ‘A levels’. Michael, however was my age and had already completed college. I inquired, “What? I thought you guys take that trip when you’re 18?” “Um, yeah, I did some traveling then. I graduated recently and have no clue what I want to do, so I decided to take another trip.” My only thought on this, which I of course kept to myself: if you don’t know what you want to do with your life, and you go travel for a year, you probably still won’t know when you get back. Sightseeing, back packing, and getting drunk in all the world’s hostels doesn’t really provide inspiration or guidance for one’s career path. It is, truth be told, a fantastic way to kill a few months. He related his adventures in Russia having visited St. Petersburg and Moscow before hopping on the Trans-Siberian Railway. I had dreamed of making this same trip, but he told me that Siberia is a depressing wasteland. Not a whole lot to see or visit.

After sharing my experiences and giving travel advice with the help of a Lonely Planet map, I went back to my French crew. Paul looked at me, “so are you happy you got to speak your language again?” I was the only one to engage with other foreigners on our travels. I guess my friendliness must have seemed terribly American.

Our first hostel in Chengdu was a bit removed from the city center, but had a lovely atrium and lots of plant life. I didn’t know before hand, but Chengdu, at least in June, feels tropical. Very green and plenty of humidity. Aesthetically, Chengdu shares all the same characteristics of other large Chinese cities. Big ugly buildings with the ceramic tile exterior, large boulevards, and new modern shopping districts. However, the city does have a few canal like rivers lined with weeping willows and parks. One such area was a glitzy night life area, very similar in style to Beijing’s Houhai/Lotus Lane. It was there that we ate our first delicious and spicy Sichuan dinner. We couldn’t read the menu of course, so we asked them to bring us whatever was good. I remember a crispy potato dish and veggies. The waiters got a kick out of us. Especially when I asked for fried rice with a Beijing accent, “yi FUR chao fan.”
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Blade Runner
May. 30th, 2008 @ 03:59 pm The Terracotta Warriors
Current Location: Xian
Current Mood: peaceful
Xian, the original Chinese capital, is a wonderful city. The old mosque, market streets, and cuisine make Xian one of the more unique and interesting of China’s large cities. Our hostel next to the Bell Tower put us at its very center and within walking distance of the Muslim Quarter. Eating spicy noodle dishes and what I call the little Xian hamburgers, we had a delicious dinner on our first night. I did make one faux pas when I asked the waitress if she had any ‘ju rou’ (pork dishes). She gave me a bemused look and said, “Umm, no, you see this is a Muslim restaurant…” Bu hao yisi!

The next day, after touring the mosque, I checked out the gift shop in the hope of finding some kind of Chinese Muslim memento. Johnny had asked me to keep my eyes out for an interesting gift he could give one of his Pakistani friends. Unfortunately, while I saw some Chinese Korans, the vendor refused to sell to me because I wasn’t Muslim. I tried to explain the situation, but she wouldn’t budge. A rare situation in this officially atheist and ultra capitalist country.

Of course, the highlight of Xian is the Terracotta Warriors. We took a two hour bus ride to the site east of the city. Pushing around bus loads of French and Japanese tourists, we saw the first and most impressive dig. A giant hangar covering thousands of terracotta statues. The detail on each individual warrior was mind blowing, not to mention the fact that they had been buried for over a thousand years. (see photos in ‘links’)

The other two sites were not nearly as interesting. One had a few horses and carriages while the other was still being excavated with few relics to show. It will probably be worthwhile in 20 years when they’ve had more time to dig. The attached museum showed off some very impressive pieces and miniature imperial carriages that were included in the tomb.

On the road back into town, we saw many outlets selling fake terracotta warriors that you can put in your yard. Only these, unlike the real thing, were a tacky orange clay color. We also passed the Qin Emperor’s tomb, the final resting place for the man credited with uniting imperial China and ending the ‘Warring States’ period. It was constructed in the same style as the Ming dynasty tombs I had seen outside Beijing and the Manchurian tombs I saw in Shenyang. A giant mound with one entrance below ground. There were even locals dressed up in ancient armor and holding large pikes.

Our last visit in the city was to a very peaceful Daoist temple in a quiet, out of the way neighborhood. A few locals chatted with us, and were very happy when I told them how lovely I found Xian. Paul’s sister Caroline and I looked at the gold statues in each temple and quietly observed as locals came to kneel down and worship, prostrating themselves with burning sticks of incense. It was very serene.
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Blade Runner
May. 28th, 2008 @ 03:52 pm Runaway Train Wreck
Current Mood: anxious
After Johnny’s whirlwind visit, it was time to say good bye to my Beijing home. Paul and I had lived together in our quaint undecorated home for a little over 4 months. Crazy music from the neighborhood notwithstanding, it was a comfortable place to live. We packed up all our junk and dumped most of it at Keren’s for storage. Moved and ready for Xian, Paul went with his sister Caroline, gf Pauline, and friend Alex to the hutongs south of Tiananmen Square. I went to the my wonderful gym, swam in the pool, enjoyed the steam room, and relaxed. Late in the afternoon, I arrived at Beijing West Train Station. A massive construction which I hear is the largest train station in Asia, if not the world. Now, Paul had come up with a genius idea. Instead of paying for 5 tickets in soft sleeper cabins, he would buy 4 soft sleeper and 1 hard seat ticket. That way, the one with the hard seat ticket could just sneak up to the cabin and sleep with the others in first class. Sounds simple doesn’t it? I volunteered to be the sneak in this scheme.

Waiting in line to board my train, some locals asked me the ubiquitous question, “Ni shi na guo ren? (where are you from)” I said the States to which they replied, “you’re rich, give me some money!” in a half joking half serious manner. I answered in Chinese, “come on buddy, I’m a student. I don’t have any candy for you!”

Now, before I continue, I should explain what I heard from Ding about train travel in hard seat class. Yes, you pay a buck five if that to travel, but it’s pure hell. At New Year’s, people sit upright with their bags in their lap for 10+ hours, maybe even two days. The lights never turn off which makes it difficult if not impossible to sleep. Even worse, a lot of people don’t even get a seat and just stand in the aisles. Imagine standing on a crowded subway for 14 hours. That’s how most Chinese travel. If you have a seat and get up to use the horrific bathroom, you’ll probably lose it. This was the situation I found myself in. It took 15min to squeeze in and get a seat, bags piled to the ceiling. I looked around thinking, “ahhh hell nooo.” As soon as the train was moving, and the inspectors had punched my ticket, I would make my way to Paul and the crew in first class. Lonely Planet notes that hard seat is ‘okay’ for maybe up to four hours. After that, you want to die.

I chatted with a nice family around me and gave up my seat to an old lady. “Sure take it! I won’t be back, hehe” I pushed through standing crowds in 5 train cars before I reached the dining car. “Salvation,” I thought. Nope. The car was locked. I stood there for 30min watching passengers argue with the train staff over why they weren’t being let in for food. Well, the dining car leads to first class and hard sleeper bunks. Only those passengers could access the dining car. “Oh shit… please God, don’t tell me I’m stuck back here all night…” We would be arriving in Xian around 7:00am and had a full day of sightseeing ahead. Mercifully, you could upgrade your ticket. I gave a sad glace at those poor bastards in coach and headed for Paul’s cabin. Barging in on their card game and throwing my bag up on a bunk, I looked at Paul. “Tu ne peux pas coire l’enfer que tu m’as condamne” We hung out, Paul teaching me to play ‘Tarot’, a strange French card game that doesn’t involve fortunetelling.
After dinner and beer, I went to find my bunk. My ticket didn’t make sense and I wasn’t sure where to go. I decided to just find an empty bunk and go to sleep. Now, as I learned afterwards, what I was supposed to do was go to the ticket guy with my upgrade. He would look in his folder, find an opening, and hand me a plastic card with a bunk number. He would collect the card when I disembarked. Not knowing this, I was awoken by an angry woman who had boarded after midnight. She was understandably tired and not too happy to find me sleeping in her bed. Suffice it to say, I didn’t get much sleep that night.

My mistakes did not end there. I awoke early and made my way over to Paul’s cabin. I never returned the plastic card to receive my original ticket. So, when we left Xian Station, as everyone showed their ticket stubs, I handed the woman my plastic card which only indicated a bunk and car number. She gave me an incredulous look, saying something to the extent of “Huh!” Knowing this was a bad situation, I made a brilliant judgment call. I bolted.
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Blade Runner
Apr. 28th, 2008 @ 04:22 pm Shanghai-ed
Current Mood: annoyed
Current Music: Rihanna- "Umbrella"
Shanghai, while very Blade Runner-esque, is a city I enjoy less with each additional visit. Johnny’s trip marked my third stay in the massive metropolis. We stayed in a nice art-deco hotel near People’s Square and hit up all the sites. The Yu Gardens Bazaar, Nanjing Lu, and Pudong. The highlight for me was our meandering stroll through the French Concession. All the old houses from the 1920s and 30s evoke Shanghai’s glory days. Well, glory days if you were what the Chinese derisively call “foreign adventurers.” After discovering some pleasant courtyards filled with cafes and art galleries, we headed back downtown.

Our walk down Nanjing Lu to the Bund did not go so well. We were approached every two minutes by a) someone selling fake Rolex watches, b) a Chinese woman who wanted to be our friend and no doubt offer some special services, c) a jackass selling light up roller skates. By the time we reached the Bund, I was ready to punch the next person who spoke to me. After taking a few photographs, two women walked up to us all friendly. On any other day, I would have taken them for friendly Chinese who wanted to meet some lao wais. This day, I just thought , “Damn scam artists, just try and sell me some student art or offer a massage. I’ll throw you in the river!” They said I looked like a model, which was a nice thing to hear, but made me all the more wary I was going to be scammed. I was extremely cold and we walked off. Now, they may have actually been sincere and nice people. But the Shanghai street hustlers are so annoying that I was compelled to be a dick to anyone who spoke to me. In essence, I had to be French.
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Blade Runner
Apr. 23rd, 2008 @ 04:19 pm After a long hiatus...
Current Mood: rejuvenated
Current Music: Chuck Berry- "Johnny B. Goode"
It’s been almost a year since I last wrote in this blog. A gap that may appear instantaneous to first time readers. Basically, after my hombre Johnny made it to Beijing, my time became quite hectic. We ran around, did all the sights, hit up Shanghai, and returned to Beijing. Shortly after he left, I had to pack up my stuff, move out, and head out on a Chinese Odyssey with Paul, his attractive sister Caroline, his buddy Alex, and his copine Pauline. It was an insane month that brought me to the buried Terracotta Warriors in Xian, the turquoise lakes of Sichuan, the sand dunes of Gansu, and the Uygur oasis of Turfan. So, in what will be a several part series, I will relate my last weeks in the Far East.
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Blade Runner
May. 19th, 2007 @ 03:25 pm Beijing Socialite
Current Mood: busy
Current Music: Blonde Redhead - Elephant Woman
So last Saturday was Elodie’s 25th birthday and she invited a bunch of us to a little soirée at a friend’s apartment. Drinking crappy Chinese wine in a plastic cup, I mingled with an interesting set of people. Most were just other French expats who were in Beijing working for various companies. I talked to Emmanuel for awhile and asked him as I scanned the room, “So just how many French people are there in Beijing?” My office is near the French Embassy and the French Lycée so every white face I see is usually French. “Well,” he replied, “ there are 3500 officially registered but the total for Beijing is likely around 5500 with 16000 in the whole country.” I was also told that a lot of young and overly enthusiastic French are disembarking in Shanghai with dreams of starting a business and making their fortune in the Far East.

I also had the pleasure of meeting two Chinese diplomats. They work for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and specialized in French. While they couldn’t speak English, their French was first rate and they spoke a little Arabic. Their last posting was a three year stint in Tunisia. Like all French speaking Chinese diplomats, their ultimate goal is to work at the Chinese embassy in Paris. I must say I was very impressed. The thing is, most conversations I have with 20 something Chinese are rather dull. Part of it is due to the language barrier. I obviously can’t understand a lot of what they say and their English is usually very basic. You end up talking about kungfu actors, where you’re from, whether you like Chinese songs or can sing karaoke, and other assorted small talk. It gets old… fast. More than that, these two Chinese had a grace and sophistication about them that makes me optimistic for future state relations. I can’t imagine them hocking loogies or yelling loudly like most Chinese.

Later I met a very nice Columbian guy named Andreas. He had spent a year in the States and had traveled by bus from Maine to Miami. He told me about what assholes U.S. customs officials are and how they treat visiting foreigners. “When you apply for a visa at the window, the embassy clerk doesn’t even look at you and if he wants, he can deny you a visa. No reason given. Maybe just because he feels like it.” We talked a bit about South America and I confessed that I’d love to tour the Americas. Make my own “Motorcycle Diaries,” but that I was afraid of being stabbed, robbed, kidnapped, harvested for organs, ect. He reassured me that I would be fine. I found his take on Columbia’s civil war particularly interesting. “Apart from a few roads in the south, Columbia is okay.” “Yeah,” I replied, “that’s where the FARC are in control.” – “Oh, no, that’s just in a few areas.” We ended the talk with Andreas commiserating on the state of Latin America. “Now, I mean I love Spanish people and my girlfriend is Spanish, but everything they touched is a disaster. Look at Columbia, the Philippines, Mexico is okay I guess…” With regards to the Philippines, Karen’s boyfriend Randy from Puerto Galera (long story) related a very bad image of his country. He told me that Manila is an ugly and dangerous city with lots of stabbings and poor destitute teenagers who sniff glue to get high. In the countryside, it’s pretty and relatively safe, but the whole country is terribly corrupt. Nepotism and giving jobs to your cronies are pretty much the norm, just as they are in most third world countries or within the Bush administration.

I chatted with one Frenchman who after I said where I was from, went, “Oh okay, because I heard you speaking English and thought, ‘wow, that guy has a perfect accent. Doesn’t sound French at all!” I must say I love telling people I work at the French Embassy after chatting in English. Without fail, their eyes widen, “What?! But you’re American?!” I just reply, “Hehehe! I know! It’s crazy. I guess I just slipped through. Bawlin!”
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Blade Runner
May. 8th, 2007 @ 10:29 pm Working for the Frenchman
Current Mood: accomplished
Current Music: Josh Joplin - "Camera One"
The majority of my time here is naturally spent working hard at the Mission and what an experience it has been. As my internship will be wrapping up in less than two weeks, I think it’s time to relate some of my experiences within the French bureaucracy.

Now, I’m sure some maybe wondering how being an American in a French office has worked out. On my second day in January, I was pretty petrified. My French was quite rusty and I was afraid I would be thrown out. Down the hall is a blonde women named Marrion who heads the “juridique” or legal dept. When Alex introduced me, I said, “Bonjour, je m’appelle Steven.” I said my name in English so she looked up at me. “Tu n’es pas français?” “Moitié” (half) I replied. She then started saying “oh, okay, normally we only take French interns, but okay.” Alex added, “Well, we took that German girl awhile back.” “Yes, but her mother was French.” I then replied, “Well, so is mine.” I can tell you on my second day, this was the last thing I needed to hear. Alex cheered me up afterwards, but from that point on, I’ve introduced myself as Stephan. Now, towards the end, my English has proven an asset rather than a liability. I’m the go to guy for a number of things. My boss comes to me to explain terms like ‘plain vanilla.’ I also translated and polished a presentation he had to give to a bunch of PBOC officials. One of the Chinese staff who works with Karen has recruited me to conduct English interviews of over 25 Chinese interpreters. I get to sit across the table, look at their resume, and then ask questions. It’s awesome. I’m used to being the nervous guy in the interview. Now I am the master. Alex was joking with me, saying that if an interpreter is pretty, I should try to get a dinner date out of it. I had a better idea. Look each of them in the eye and ask with a straight face, "Are you now or have you ever been a member of the communist party?" I may get into trouble for that one... Also, for the first two months here, I said little and tried not to stick out as “the American.” These days, I throw around English all the time and embrace my redneck heritage. Of course, this has in turn caused Paul, my roommate and coworker, to give me a hard time. His favorite thing these days is to go, “wow, look at the dollar today. So when I go to Oklahoma, I can buy a car for like 50 euros right?” I should note that Paul will be spending a year on exchange in Oklahoma City and is thrilled by the prospect of seeing tornadoes.

Most of my work has been rather tedious but very interesting. For three weeks, I worked with excel tables in order to compile lists of which countries and businesses the Chinese have the most contact with. Right now, I’m putting together details of major Chinese IPOs and how those stocks have done since their debut.

A problem I still have is I miss little details and quips in the conversations around me at work. As French is not my first language, I can tune it out as I work until it become a pleasant background noise. Thing is, sometimes Anne-Marie who sits in front of me will turn and go, “Eh, qu’est-ce que tu penses Steven?” Having no idea what the conversation is about, I just smile and say something stupid like, “Yeah, I don’t know, that’s the way it is I guess.” My first months here really made me an expert in knowing when to smile, to nod, to give a little laugh, all the while not having a clue what’s going on. Heaven forbid someone ask a more pointed question! It can be rather annoying at times, but I know better than to say every five minutes, “What? What’s that word? What’s going on? Who’s in pajamas?” Paul knows I’m faking half the time when I nod in understanding. He thankfully will ask, “Tu comprends mec?” and take the time to explain. I usually still won’t laugh if it’s a joke.
Another example, in February, Paul and I received an email for “un formation de qualité” or training session. I didn’t think we had to go until I realized it was mandatory. So Paul and I walk in an hour late, sign the little sheet, and tried to take notes as this older French guy with grey hair and a ridiculous moustache went on and on about… well, I don’t really know. Something about being helpful and respectful to clients I think. His PowerPoint slides looked like space shuttle schematics and everything he said flew over my head. I pretended to take notes and then started a tic-tac-toe game with Paul. Karen and Elodie thought that was funny as we clandestinely passed the paper back and forth. Later on, I realized that the speaker was the number three in the whole mission and makes something like 200,000 Euros a year. I also learned through water cooler gossip that no one respects him and that the two bosses in my department used to make jokes about how incompetent he is. So, I’ve learned that offices are a lot like high school. The meeting dragged on for two hours at which point I walked out, way behind in my press review work. I looked at Paul. “I didn’t get any of that.” “Don’t worry,” he says, “there’s nothing to get.” About a month later, I was handed a little certificate proving my attendance. I guess it’s like some DMV classes. No one really cares whether you walk away with anything, as long as you go.

I have also learned, listening to my colleagues complain, that French people don’t work well together. On one day, the head of the entire Mission came in and asked us to find a Wall Street Journal article detailing a Chinese contract with Areva, the French nuclear power firm. I compile a daily press review and, due to some stupid password issues, did not include the WSJ that day. Now, think about that. The head of the French government’s economic mission in China had to find out about a French nuclear contract from the newspaper. You think someone would have kept him informed. Nope. Elodie once told me about how Marrion was trying to do some work on the tourist trade. The French embassy’s tourist department refused to help her saying it wasn’t her jurisdiction. While I get a lot crap for being an American, everyone has said to me, “Americans are better at working together and getting the job done. They don’t waste time or sabotage themselves like we do.”
Everything in China is about guangxi or ‘back door connections/networking.’ If a high up official puts in a good word for you, then doors start to open. Awhile back, Areva was vying for a nuclear contract in a different part of China. I’m not sure on all the details, but Areva and thus France lost out to Westinghouse, an American firm. Alex told me that the deal appeared golden when U.S. Treasury Secretary Paulson came to town and signed the Westinghouse deal. Part of it was the Chinese trade more with the U.S. and were concerned about trade tariffs if they didn’t start buying U.S. products and services. Another cause was the lack of effort by the French Minister of Finance Thierry Breton. Instead of promoting Areva and working hard to clinch a deal, Breton didn’t discuss the issue. Apparently he didn’t like Areva’s CEO or something.
As a French employee, I say aloud, “Oh yes, it’s a pity France didn’t get that contract and lost out to Westinghouse,” but inside I chuckle, “hehe, bitches…”
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Mar. 31st, 2007 @ 03:16 pm Beijing Vice
Current Mood: crazy
Current Music: Phil Collins "In the Air Tonight"
I would like to share two particular weekends, a double feature, to hopefully capture the essence of Beijing’s nightlife. The first weekend being in January when I first arrived, and the second being St. Patrick’s Day.

Sanlitun is of course one of the main bar streets in Beijing and conveniently located near my office. I spent many a drunken night there in 2005, and on one Friday evening, Paul and I went to Bar Blu. The same bar where, if you’ve read all my posts, I attended a traffic light party where singles wear green and those who don’t know wear red. We had some drinks and looked around nonchalantly. The same music tends to play every night: Nelly Furtado, some Snoop, and Shakira. On the TVs was either sports or episodes of Jackass which I thought was an interesting choice. I was watching the classic “party boy” skit when Paul introduced me to a German guy near our table. He worked at Daimler Chrysler but admitted that he thought BMWs were better. Apart from exchanging my phone number with a friendly Chinese girl next to our table, and Paul dancing with some Russians, the night was fairly tame. The highlight for me was picking up my coat. A blond girl with a British accent was waiting next to us and heard me switching between French and English. She started chatting with me and said my accent in French was probably crap. “Oh, I bet it’s better than your little British lilt.” She looked at me, “You think I’m British? No..” “Okay, Australian then,” a lucky second guess. For a stupid gun-totting cheeseburger-eating SUV driving motor-boating son of a bitch, those Commonwealth accents can be tricky to discern. I continued. “Okay, so you’re from Australia yet you have a British accent. That means you’re from Adelaide.” I got the classic mouth open, “How the hell did you know that?” look that is most gratifying. Thank you Charles for that piece of info. She went “Well, I’m very impressed, my name is Ellen.” Bawlin! I probably will never see her again, but still. The German guy ran into us again and started talking about picking up Chinese girls and what not. His parting words, in that slightly condescending way that Germans do best (like beer) were, “Yah, have a great time fellas and…eh… don’t fuck around too much!” We rolled out and were greeted by a Sanlitun institution. Every time I’ve gone out to Bar Blu and the neighboring night spots, even back in 2005, there are a number of black guys who stand around and approach you saying, “Hey man! What’s up, having a good evening?” They’re so friendly that you want to stop and say, “Yeah man, Pretty good, what’s up?” at which point they’ll offer to sell you some ecstasy, hash (which I’m told comes from Afghanistan), and other substances that can’t be found at the local pharmacy. Another thing that perplexes me is where these guys come from. ‘That’s Beijing’, the expat magazine of choice, says they’re from West Africa, but I don’t hear any Forest Whitaker or Blood Diamond accents. They sound like Americans. Also, how can such blatant dealing continue in China, a country that still sees itself as a victim of opium and promptly executes drug dealers? Bribes maybe?
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Mar. 19th, 2007 @ 11:39 pm Big Brother is Watching You
Current Mood: cynical
Current Music: Mickey 3D- La Mort du Peuple
It’s been awhile since I’ve posted and here’s why. The Chinese government in all it’s wisdom has banned Livejournal. In another fantastic display of commie paranoia, the thought police are working overtime to make sure no one can post seditious or revealing info, particularly in light of the National People’s Congress. The NPC, which wrapped up last Friday, is the annual two-week meeting of the Chinese rubber stamp legislature. Over two thousand delegates came from all over China to hear Hu Jintao and Premier Wen Jibao harp on about building and maintaining a “harmonious society.” I’ve met an Enarque here named Emmanuel. I couldn’t believe at first, but he attended some of the meetings in the Great Hall of the People, seeing VIPs such as Bo Xilai, the handsome and immensely popular Minister of Trade. How did a white devil get into what used to be an extremely secretive event? Well, the Chinese government apparently sends out a few invites to each embassy. Maybe two or three. Emmanuel, although he’s been here for less than a month and doesn’t speak Chinese got to go. Why? Allow me to explain the French education system. An Enarque is a student of l’Ecole Nationale d’Administration, France’s most prestigious school. If you want to be top dog, President de la République, you go there. They take only the best and brightest and if you graduate from ENA, you’re a made man. All doors in the French world will magically open for you. So Emmanuel and the number two at the French Embassy attended the meetings. Apparently the French Ambassador had more important things to do unlike his American and British counterparts. Now before I come off as envious, I must say that Emmanuel is a really cool guy. We bonded instantly when he told me he liked Michael Mann and thought Collateral and Miami Vice were great movies. He hasn’t seen Heat yet so there's something to look forward to. Now, allow me to relate his exclusive inside peak. Wen Jibao gave part of his speech in English and a transcript was prepared for the lao wais. Out of no where, a bunch of pretty young ladies came out from the wings and in a very choreographed way served tea to all the top commie officials. Emmanuel told me that he hadn’t brought his camera, thinking they’d take it away and send him to a gulag or a coal mine in Shaanxi province. On the contrary, all the delegates were taking photos left and right. They only come to Beijing once a year so it’s kind of a holiday. More importantly, they all wanted to get their photos taken with the colorfully dressed delegates from Tibet and other minority regions.

The NPC is a pretty huge deal. Around my neighborhood, I started seeing people wear red bands with Chinese characters around their arms. Of course, I immediately thought of the Red Guards and what happy times they caused during the Cultural Revolution. At work, I asked Ding what it meant. Like every time I or anyone else asks questions about Chinese government and society, Ding lit up. “Ah, those people are working for the Party. In Chinese they are called “little feet,” kind of like how women used to bind their feet during the Qing dynasty.” Basically, these people are old or retired Chinese who are part of neighborhood comities. A kind of neighborhood watch. They get some money from the government and keep an eye on things. Specifically as Ding told me, “They look around, make sure there are no Falun Gong or crazy people to disrupt the meetings.” Once the meetings are over, they’re effectively deactivated. As for the delegates themselves, Ding told us that they are cloistered in their hotels for two weeks and are forbidden to speak to journalists or have any unofficial meetings. The reason for this is to prevent corruption in the form of lobbying. The top brass don’t want little piss ant delegates to be influenced by rich Guangdong businessmen and what not. A part of me wishes we had a similar rule in the States.

Now apart from the obvious, what kind of stories does the Chinese government want to keep a lid on and thus block access to Livejournal. Well, for one, the mayor of Harbin made a post on LJ last year during the terrible chemical spill which resulted in massive drinking water shortages. Even the Russians got screwed on that one as Harbin’s river flows across the border. Another piece of info that got little to no press coverage here: last week villagers in Hunan province rioted over outrageous bus fares. At least one person was killed, dozens injured, and many buses lit on fire. Alex sent me an email with some photos of the burned cars. “Mais, c’est Baghdad!” he cried. “Or Clichy-sous-Bois…” I thought to myself.

However, I have to admire China in its efforts. The other day I walked by Tiananmen Square and looked up at the portrait of Mao. How, after so many visits and days in China, could I have missed it? Unnoticeable to the naked eye, but if you stare long enough you can see it. Underneath Mao’s stern expression… is a smile….
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Mar. 6th, 2007 @ 10:14 pm Heilongjiang-ing it
Current Mood: silly
Current Music: Vanilla Ice- Ice Ice Baby
Finally, I shall divulge my tales from China's northernmost province. Now, Heilongjiang means "Black Dragon River" which you have to admit is a badass name for a province. Ding advised caution saying (and I'm paraphrasing) "Qiqihar is bandit country so watch your ass. Also, there are a ton of prostitutes up there. The women are good looking and hearty so they fill up the brothels around the country." Bawlin! Anyway, going back to my overnight train...

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Feb. 21st, 2007 @ 10:13 pm Pretty Pictures
I've uploaded all my China photos thus far including those from my trip to China's northern most province. Just click the relevant title under 'Links' at the top of my journal page.
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Feb. 21st, 2007 @ 11:15 am Chinese New Year
Current Mood: uncomfortable
Current Music: Malcolm Mclaren- About Her
To end the week, Paul and I bought some beers and watched “Crank” although I was unhappy to see my bootleg’s features were in Russian. Saturday was interesting to say the least. After failing to buy a return train ticket from Harbin, I decided to return par avion.
In the afternoon I went to the gym near my office. Now this gym is quite swanky. The only reason I’m using it is because I get a discount from working at the embassy. Not very large, but each exercise machine has a flat screen TV with a number of satellite channels. While running on the treadmill, I can watch BBC, CNN, MSNBC, Cinemax, and some random stuff from Japan and Australia. There is also a heated pool, 5 jacuzzis, a boxing room, and a luxurious locker room with sauna and steam rooms. Best part, nobody goes there! The place, built by some Hong Kong billionaire, is so expensive that I only see one or two other people. A stark contrast to the McGill gym, although I did enjoy checking out the freshman girls while I worked out. Kinda gave me some motivation. Now, when I first toured the gym about two+ weeks ago, a nice Chinese girl showed me around. She kept saying I was very handsome to which I simply said thanks. I’m used to hearing it in China and I tend to operate under the same protective mentality as when I’m back home. I think, “Ah, the old I think you’re very handsome trick… not gonna fall for that shit.” So anyway, I go to the gym in the morning when this young woman is off. On Saturday, she was there and said, “oh, long time no see!” and we started talking. After five minutes, she told me her English name was Wendy and that she wanted to write me a note. I finding her friendly said I would give her my cell phone number. After my workout, we talked some more, I said I would see her next week, and headed out the door. Her note was innocent enough I thought, but I didn’t have time to analyze it. I was on a mission: to buy a ton of cheap and ludicrously dangerous fireworks. Chinese New Year is insane. I mean, the kiosk near my office was selling sets that would be illegal even in South Carolina. The constant sound of explosions and fireworks is starting to stress me. I feel like I’m living through the siege of Sarajevo or the Battle of Stalingrad. Furthermore, people shoot them off wherever they want. The only rule as I understand it is no fireworks between 12 and 7am. The rest is your ass.
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Feb. 15th, 2007 @ 10:50 pm Bullets and Ballet
Current Mood: surprised
Current Music: Gary Jules- Mad World
So this week was pretty chill. Both bosses in the financial department were out of town for a conference in Manila, so it was just Alex, Paul, Ding, and I. Anne-Marie, the only woman in our department, left for a holiday in Burma. I worked of course, but when the boss is away, you can relax. Half the mission has already gone on vacation as this weekend is Chinese New Year or Chunjie (Spring Festival). People in my apartment block have already started shooting off fire crackers and fountains. Some sound like anti-aircraft or artillery rounds. Soon I’ll have to ask in mandarin, “Where the M80s at?”

Lunch on Tuesday was interesting as it was extremely windy and Karen was wearing a smoking hot mini shirt. She was quite concerned of the wind blowing it up à la Marilyn Monroe. So anyway, we went out in a group. There was Elodie, a lovely 24 year-old intern in the legal deparment, Sylvain who is a new expat, 26, now lives in my old apartment in the diplomatic compound, and Raphael who is a laid back intern also in his mid 20s. While eating, Karen started talking about her work at the Mission and how someone had complained about her. “Who?” we asked. She wouldn’t say, but only that the complaint included that her outfits were too sexy and not serious. I chimed in, “Ahh, it’s a woman! No guy would complain about that. No guy is going to say, “Putain! Elle est trop sexy! Je ne peux pas concentrer sur mon travail!” On the way back to work, I was walking ahead with the guys when Elodie and Karen ran up to join us in the elevator. “You missed it,” they said. “My skirt blew up. It was quite a show.” Me- “What! AHHHH Damn it! I was eating my twisty cone and I missed it...” Perhaps it’s a good thing as she’s married. Even if she enjoys flirting with the interns a bit, I haven’t met her husband yet. He might be 6’5 and a body builder for all I know.
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Feb. 8th, 2007 @ 10:08 pm Yellow Snow
Current Mood: accomplished
Current Music: Limp Bizkit- Take a look around
So, last weekend I went on an impromptu ski trip to Nanshan Ski Resort, about 45min northeast of Beijing. The mountain had five short, but fun runs. The weather was fabulous. Sunny and around 50 degrees (you commie Celsius fans can calculate that yourselves). Even better, as my roommate Paul said, it was possibly the least ecological thing I've ever done. You see, Beijing is essentially a desert. It hardly rains or snows, and when it does (usually summer) it's because the government fires rockets into the sky and seeds the clouds. Ergo, this mountain was made entirely of artificial snow.

The ride over was fun. Partaking in the trip was Karen, a fun attractive woman in her early thirties who I've come to know pretty well. She's married so no Mrs. Robinson affairs if anyone was thinking it. I certainly was...
She, Paul, and I talked about French habits, mainly how French people hate speaking other languages, and then about Serge Gainsbourg. Now Serge Gainsbourg was one crazy mofo. A poet, writer, musician, the guy loved causing a scandal. Karen related some of his exploits over the years which included: burning a 500 franc bill on live tv at a time when that represented a week's pay for most people, making a nude music video about incest featuring he and his 16 year-old daughter, and banging just about every notable French woman from 1960 till his death in 1991. I saw a clip on youtube of Serge hitting on Whitney Houston during a French late night talk show. Sounding drunk and/or high, he told the host to translate (even though he was speaking English) "I want to fuck her." I mentioned that particular incident to Paul who said to me, "oh no, he wasn't drunk or high, he was always like that." You have to give the man props. How many people could be accused of scandalous behavior in a country like France. Now, if he pulled that off in Holland, that would be worthy of a monument.

There was a good representation of Beijing's expat community. While waiting in the lift lines, I complimented an American wearing a "Boondock Saints" hoodie. He was like, "Thanks man! You American? Yeah? These guys (a German couple) never hear of it!" I also saw some Russians, other French expats not attached to the embassy, and some Koreans. Good times. The choice of music blasted over the mountain PA was interesting. I think I heard Limp Bizkit’s “Take a look around” (the song from Mission Impossible 2) about 10 times. They also played old French songs and new age hippie stuff like Enya. After skiing all morning, we met up for, you guessed it, Chinese food. I ate some lovely coal barbecue skewers and drank spice wine and beer. It’s always a good idea to get loaded before you hit the slopes… Oh, and coal barbecue skewers have to be one of the best things in China. For about 10 cents you get a stick of delicious and spicy chicken, pork, or lamb. Even better, the coal gives it a slight gasoline like flavoring or a certain “je ne sais quo” as I like to say. Some might find them unhealthy. I find them scrumptioulescent. My being an American naturally brought the conversation to life in the U.S. Alain, a French expat working for a Swedish firm, was part of our group and started talking about the workplace and how paranoid men are in the States. “When alone with a woman in an office,” he continued, “American men are told to leave the door open.” Alain went on to say how if you look an American woman in the eye right away (and thereby acknowledging her sexuality), she’ll likely get mad and think you’re treating her like an object. However, in a place like Italy, if you don’t look a woman in the eye right away, you’ll piss her off because she’ll think you found her ugly. I made Alain laugh when I added, “um, yeah, but if you’re a good looking guy in the States and smooth like let’s say George Clooney, the woman won’t mind. She’ll appreciate the attention.” We then started talking about French culture and then French beaches. “Oh yes,” I started, “seeing girls topless on the beach was always a bit of a shock. However, as I hit adolescence, I came to appreciate it more and more...” The catch of course (as I imagine must be the case for many Frenchmen), is that if my mother or sister did the same thing, I would have to immediately gouge out my eyes and commit seppuku. That or chomp down on a cyanide tablet. Karen, obviously trying to mess with me, started, “What? You’ve never seen your family naked? You’re weird.” I tried asking if she had brothers and how they felt about possibly seeing her or her mom in such a state. “Oh, my brothers used to walk around naked all the time.” Sigh…. I guess that’s what happens in a country where people don’t give their hearts to Jesus…
At five, our fun was over and we headed out. I had some good runs and fell only twice. It was great.
On the ride back to Beijing, Karen told me about her experiences in the States. At the age of 17, she went and lived with a family in New Jersey as part of some kind of exchange. “New Jersey?” was my first reaction, but hey, I’ve come to admire the state in films. “Garden State” “Harold and Kumar Go to Whitecastle” and anything by Kevin Smith. She told me how being a French girl in the States meant the whole town lined up to date her. Her host family’s teenage neighbor won out. I looked at her and said, “I bet when you moved in next door, that was the best day of his life.” She then went on to say how shocked she was while watching tv with her host family. The younger kids in the house had to cover their eyes for an innocent kiss scene, but a horror movie with people being hacked to pieces with an ice pick was okay. Ah, America, how I miss thee with your silly sense of propriety.

I was quite sore by the time I hit my pillow, but all in all it was a glorious day.
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Jan. 31st, 2007 @ 01:48 pm Nankai Homecoming
Current Mood: amused
Current Music: Lil' Wayne- Go DJ
This past weekend, I took a trip to good old Tianjin, home of Nankai University. When I first came to China in May of 2004, Nankai became my home. The summer I spent there was among the best I ever had. Classes ended at noon and we had the rest of the day to do whatever we wanted. Whatever we wanted (we being a bunch of Quebecois students from the Universite de Montreal, some Anglophones, and a few Koreans) boiled down to a combination of several things. Playing badminton, meeting language exchange partners (usually attractive Chinese girls), grabbing lunch at Alibaba, kung fu lessons, or watching downloaded episodes of Japanime like Naruto or One Piece. Life couldn’t get much better.
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Jan. 22nd, 2007 @ 07:56 pm A Royale Beginning
Current Mood: exhausted
Current Music: Edith Piaf- Non, Je ne regrette rien
My first day on the job was a long one at that. Alex told me that work starts around 9:00am and ends at 6:30 with two hours for lunch. So, I arrive at 8:50 to find the office deserted. As I didn’t have a key card yet, I wasn’t sure how I was going to get in when a handsome tall fellow walked out of the elevator and opened it for me. I thought to myself, “I bet he’s going to turn out to be my boss, Mr. Yanitch.” Sure enough that was the case as I followed him all the way to his office before he turned around and realized who I was. We shook hands. I explained my background and how yes, my French may be dicey at present, but that I was confident it would come back quickly. He then told me that my work would consist of doing research for him, mostly in English, and then making summaries or notes for him in French. “Do you know how to use excel?” “Uh, a little bit. It’s been awhile,” I replied in sloppy broken French. I also said how my composition skills weren’t too strong. “Okay then,” he sighed, “We have some work to do!” I certainly set the bar of expectation rather low and I was afraid that maybe I had done too good a job. I started to think, “Man, he probably thinks I’m a complete retard and will prove utterly useless.” He then gave me a sixty-page report on the Chinese banking system to look through and get an idea of what kind of work the financial office does. Though Chinese banking laws and the penetration of foreign banks in China may sound boring, I found it all very interesting. As I read, I started a vocab list of all the words and phrases I didn’t know. After two weeks there are over 200 words in my list. Luckily, economic jargon uses a few words over and over. I’ve learned the French equivalent terms of non-performing loans, required reserve ratios, assets and liabilities, shareholder banks, and foreign direct investment to name a few.
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Jan. 22nd, 2007 @ 07:37 pm Picking the Fruits of Globalization
Current Mood: curious
Current Music: Emilio Estefan- Pennies in my Pocket
I woke up early on my second day and set about getting my bearings. In turned out that my compound is in the Ritan Embassy district and more importantly is only a few blocks away from “Steak and Eggs.” Now, some of you may recall from my blog in the summer of 2005 that Steak and Eggs is an American restaurant run by a Groucho Marx look alike. I think he may be Canadian. Anyway, this place is an instituion for the expat community as you can eat good western food for a decent price. Two thing you can’t do at imported abominations like TGI Fridays around the corner. I myself was fond of ordering tuna melts and peanut butter milkshakes. On this particular first Friday I had breakfast at Starbucks. Across the street stood a Haagen-Dazs and a Sizzler. After Starbucks, I bought some supplies at 7-11 next door. For lunch I ate at Subway, also on the same block. Now, I know some of are you thinking, “Damn Steve, do you have to be such a bai gui (white bastard)?” Thing is, the hole in the wall Chinese restos where you can eat a four course meal for a buck five are no where to be seen. I was literally in the middle of Americatown.
I took a stroll west to the China World Trade Center which consists of an upscale shopping mall and hotel. Gucci, Prada, Versace, you name it can be found there. Don’t expect a bargain though. Those boutiques have the same price, regardless of which continent you’re on. My reason for making the trek was to use the hotel’s internet which was painfully slow due to the Taiwanese earthquake in December. Still, there was a small ensemble playing music in the lobby and as I walked out they started playing “Are you lonesome tonight” by Elvis. The song I love to sing on karaoke nights and with which I drunkenly serenaded a room full commi Chinese during a trip to the Great Wall in 2004.
After getting a new sim card for my old cell phone, I met up with Alex and his friend Axel. Now, what was for dinner on my second night in China? Brazilian barbeque! My only gaff was when I mistakenly took a wasabe puree for guacamole. Who serves wasabe with Brazillian food?! It was a neat place and for 60 kuai or $8 USD, it was all you could eat and drink. Now, Axel, who is one year older than me, is a very interesting character. He was an intern or “stagiare” at the Economic Mission as well, and is now finishing up an internship with Callion, a French financial firm. As we ate and as I proceeded to get a little tipsy, Axel and Alex explained how they had both participated in a singing competition in which they made the semi-finals. Apparently they learned some sappy Mandarin love song and performed on Chinese television. Axel made it to the finals, but unfortunately would not make the final taping as he had his internship. Later they called back to say they would work around his schedule. Awesome.
They then explained to me how much they love singing Chinese songs. “I enjoy Kareoke myself,” I chimed in. “Non, il faut avoir une audience” Like my friends in Montreal, only with Chinese love ballads instead of “Barret’s Privateers” and other British naval songs, Alex and Axel loved to sing in the streets at the top of their lungs. You can imagine the spectacle to a Beijinger. Two westerners singing love songs in fluent Chinese.
The next day, Saturday, I was invited to a home cooked meal at Alex’s apartment with Axel and another intern named Roseline. Pasta with chicken and a glass of wine. Axel told me about how he waned to learn Vietnamese as he has some Vietnamese heritage. I’m not sure if it’s one his parents or grandparents, but you can definitely notice some of those traits in his eyes. I also learned he speaks fluent English (without a novelty French accent) thanks to a semester abroad at the University of Pennsylvania. To end the day, we watched “Babel." A suitable choice considering my past few days.
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Jan. 22nd, 2007 @ 07:04 pm Back to Beijing Part III: Retour avec la Vengeance
Current Mood: chipper
Current Music: Moby- One of These Mornings
After a year and a half, I have returned to the craziness that is the People’s Republic of China. While my internship at the French Embassy's Mission Economique will probably leave less time for blogging than my last stay in Beijing, I will make an effort to update at least once a week. As always, I hope my entries offer some insights on China, and on this particular stint, France as well. Naturally, I have a lot to say for my first week, so the next few entries are on the long side. Enjoy.
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